Spiders are spreading through my home. How can I restrict or eliminate them.
Are there effective predators? (Like I need to introduce these into my domocile!) Is there an arachnicide I can purchase or concoct?I expect to enjoy your japes and jests, but would ultimately appreciate a serious answer before my house comes to resemble something from a tale by Poe.
Spiders can be ignored if their numbers are small and they stay in out of the way places. They primarily eat insects already present in homes, such as cupboard pests, silverfish, or clothes moths. Sometimes they eat each other or capture stray insect invaders such as rootweevils and blowflies. Spiders that are more visible, like the ones that get trapped in the tub or run up a wall, can be captured and released outside, vacuumed up, swatted flat, or sprayed with an insecticide. (Do not over-spray).Usually spider activity declines by mid-October. Unless you continually introduce new spiders on firewood, household spiders will retire into obscurity for another year, quietly killing several times their weight in household insect pests and flies.You alone can select the methods that will solve your spider problem or your reaction to the problem Fortunately, there will always be spiders. The best solution is to manipulate the environment so the spiders don’t live where you do. It is unrealistic to expect that spiders can be totally eliminated. On the other hand, one need not live with abundant spiders. If you can’t live with your spiders, some of the following approaches can reduce their numbers:1. Habitat modification: those spiders which are capable of moving indoors are ones which establish their webs in wood piles, junk piles, disused yard furniture or traps, trash bins, outdoor stairwells, window frames, porch superstructures, brick piles, or ventilation structures. Eliminating or keeping these sites relatively clean will help to keep spider populations low.2. Structural modification: prevent spider entry by keeping doors and windows screened; by weatherstripping doors so there are no openings between the bottom of the door and the doorsill; closing gaps around water pipes under sinks; and sealing cracks and openings in the house.3. Sanitation inside: Stored boxes, piles of magazinesand other items in basements create ideal hiding places for spiders. Many live out their lives and die without ever being noticed. The old practice of spring and fall cleaning is a practical control measure. Vacuum behind and under furniture and book cases, along baseboards and corners and in storage areas.4. Pesticides (inside): an aerosol bomb or fogger will reduce spiders, as well as fleas and other insects that are already present. It will not provide residual control for insect coming in later. The pesticide also may not penetrate inaccessible areas. Follow label directions.5. Pesticides (outside): Diazinon or dursban, can be applied around the outside of doors, window, vents, outdoor stairwells or window wells, foundations, or cracks and openings. Spray only where needed. Be sure that the site, (indoor use, along foundations outside, etc.) is listed on the label. The product should also be labeled for spiders or nuisance pests.6. Exterminators: Professional pest control operators (PCO’s) or exterminators will tackle the job for you. There are many approaches used by various companies.7. Firewood: Spiders seek warmth and shelter in protected places like logs, under piles of rocks, bark and other debris. The wood pile is a choice winter residence. Many spiders ride inside on the firewood. Protect outside wood piles with covering. The more debris that falls on the wood, the more attractive the spiders find it. It isn’t advisable to spray the wood pile. Pesticides with enough residual to keep spiders out could be toxic to handle, ant there is no information available on possible health effects of burning wood treated with pesticides.8. New construction: if you are adding a room, building a house, or remodeling, consider treating the wall voids with relatively non-toxic (to humans) boric acid. This material is picked up on the spider’s body and eaten when the spider grooms itself.Intregrated Pest ManagementUsually, successful pest management requires a combination or blend of methods. Each situation may require a different combination of management strategies.Good luck, good question.
Please help what do i do Attack of silverfish.all over my clothes can i repair the holes.how do i store them.
now do i put the clothes in zip lock bags or tissue paper,do i wash ever single one of them so the silverfish wont come back?I am SO upset i found 2 large hold all bags i had in back of closet and a lot of stuff is ruined but my good stuff a pageant dress and a lot of good sweaters tops and clothes i cant believe…
Wow …You really need to clean your house. In your situation I would take everything from one room into another, and vacuum the floor thoroughly and maybe refinish the floor, and caulk up holes, or put putty there, etc. You need to find out where they are coming in from. That means moving every last item and piece of furniture out. Then I would go ahead and wash all of your clothing and just hang them up on hangers, loose. Vacuum all of your books, before you put them on the shelves, etc. Take all of your papers and put them in boxes. Basically you don’t want a bunch of clutter, where bugs can nest and live off of dust, dirt, grime, etc.Then I would take everything from the room, where you had your stuff, and put it in another room, and do the same thing … and only put stuff back in the room when the stuff has been cleaned.I did a search for you … I found this random website. It was one of the first that came up, on a Yahoo search. Perhaps once you have cleaned, you should apply some kind of commercial pesticide. But I would say that you should not have one without the other.
How to get rid of sliverfish…(the bug-black ones).
okay, i have this spiderman 3 poster in my room, and a day or 2 after the first snow in d.c/md, i see these 4 small tiny bugs dead in the poster(or sleeping)!!!! then the night of, i notice a black mediam bug crawling on the side of my wall(it has like a long(well is was short) tail, and 2 atennas in the…
PreventionSanitation is important but not entirely effective in reducing populations because insects often reside between wall partitions, in insulation materials, in books and papers, among book shelves and in other protected places. However, be sure to remove old stacks of newspapers, magazines, papers, books and fabrics plus foodstuffs spilled and stored for long periods of time. Often reducing available water and lowering the home’s relative humidity with dehumidifiers and fans is helpful. Repair leaking plumbing and eliminate moisture around laundry areas. Lighting a dark, sheltered area may force these insects to move to new sites where they can be controlled more easily. Once the infestation has been eliminated, sanitation will help prevent reinfestation.InsecticidesTreatments for silverfish control need to be applied thoroughly to all potential hiding places such as cracks, crevices, inside floor moldings, around steam and water pipes, in and behind seldom moved furniture, closets and even attics. It may be necessary to drill small holes in the walls to treat large populations in wall voids. ECO PCO DUST is perfect for these treatments. Silverfish control may not be immediate since bristletails in wall voids must move out and contact the insecticides. It may take 10 to 14 days. There are many insecticides labeled for control of silverfish and firebrats (bristletails). Silverfish Place Paks are new and simple for the homeowner. Residual sprays like ECO PCO Insecticide Space spray Total Release bombs like pyrethrins are effective in places where sprays are hard to reach such as in crawl spaces and attics. Before using any insecticide, always read the label, follow directions and safety precautions. It is advisable to use the services of a reputable, licensed pest control operator or applicator when infestations are persistent and hard to locate.http://www.critterridders.com/silverfishpaks.htm
Any fool-proof methods of preventing books from turning yellowy, insect-infestation etc..
I collect novels and my greatest fear is the book pages turning yellow. About 2 months ago, my books were infested with some unknown insect (not silverfish) and I have to patientlyremove all these small insects from the covers of my books. I also notice that some books can develop “moles”… small black…
Caring For BooksTo booksellers it’s a too familiar scenario. A caller offers books for sale – a collection or a family accumulation – full of interesting titles and sought-after subjects. The caller says something like, “They’re in pretty good shape,” and the bookseller makes the house call, only to find damp, moldy, underlined, jacketless, sun-faded, and generally unsaleable books. A disappointment to both owner and bookseller. Too bad. With proper care, books last a long time. Without it, they deteriorate quickly and become an unwelcome donation to the Friends of the Library sale.Plenty of good advice about how to care for books is available and, in the following paragraphs, I’ve tried to summarize it and to suggest a few sources for additional information.Damage to books usually results from careless handling or improper storage so here are some suggestions for avoiding the most common book disasters. Some seem too obvious to need stating, but I’ve seen so many books damaged by carelessness or ignorance that spreading the word seems worth doing.Use bookmarks. Never dog-ear a book to mark your place. Well, if it’s a paperback of John Grisham or Sue Grafton, dog-ear all you want. It’ll probably never be worth anything anyhow. On second thought, someone probably said that about the first editions of Gone With the Wind and Tarzan of the Apes. Both are now worth thousands. But not in paperback, so I think you’re safe doing anything you want with paperback bestsellers. Paper clips, rubber bands, locks of hair, rubber bands, string, dental floss, pencils, etc. aren’t bookmarks and shouldn’t be used as such. Flat paper bookmarks really are best. Archival paper is nice, but if you remember to take the marker out of the book when you decide to quit reading, ordinary paper markers are fine. Pieces of paper, left in a book for 20 years, leave a brown stain so eschew the common practice of leaving bookmarks, relevant newspaper articles, scraps of paper, etc. in the book. Avoid markers, which damage the pages. Leave your grandmother’s silver Tiffany marker on display, not in the book. Oh, and, as your fourth-grade teacher mentioned, don’t leave the book open and flat to save your place.Any marks in or on books lessen their value. That includes coffee stains, rings left by glasses, your name and address, grandmotherly admonitions, underlining, highlighting (yellow highlighters ought always to be kept at least 10 yards away from valuable books), and, yes, even the cleverest of bookplates. Unless, of course, you are so important that your bookplate or signature lends value. If that’s the case, annotate, underline, and commission a bookplate of your very own. But not otherwise.Save the dust jackets. A truly collectible book loses appeal and value dramatically when the dust jacket is gone. Protect dust jackets with clear plastic covers. Once you’re used to having them on your books, you’ll be uncomfortable reading books with naked jackets. Resist the temptation to make your own covers out of brown paper. They discolor the endpapers of the book. Most good booksellers can either sell you covers or suggest a source. I happen to like Gaylord Brothers, but there are others. Ever noticed those tiny tears at the top of the spine of many books? They’re a common fault and result from removing the book from the shelf by pulling at the top of the spine (the head cap). Better reach in from the top and slide the book out or push the books on either side in and grasp the spine. Dust with a feather duster (away from the spine) or a hand vac set at a very low power.Advice for the preservation of leather bound books used to be to use a leather preservative twice a year. The Library of Congress and AIC (The American Institute for Conservation of Historic and Artistic Works) now recommend against such preservatives. A clear, plastic cover on a good leather-bound book will help to preserve it and protect it from rubbing. Don’t leave it wrapped in plastic for a long period of time though. It needs to breathe.Store books carefully. The rules are simple but finding the space and creating the correct environment are often inconvenient —- the result being books “temporarily” stored in bad places that turn out to be book homes for a generation or more.At the top of the list of things to be avoided are heat, dampness, UV rays, and extreme changes in temperature and humidity. According to the AIC, “a cool, dry, and stable environment” is best for book rooms. For rooms shared by people and books, 70 degrees F and 50 percent relative humidity is recommended. If the books don’t have to share their space with people, lower temperature is even better. The best shelving protects books from dust and dirt (glass doors are nice) and allows books to be shelved upright with space both in back and front of the books. Not too tightly packed in please—that leads to the spread of mold and to damage resulting from prying the books loose. Avoid placing shelves on outside walls where damp and mold are more likely to become problems than on inside walls and make sure there’s no direct sun on books (UV rays fade bindings and dust jackets in a matter of hours). Really valuable books should be kept cool, at low humidity, and, preferably, in the dark. Not practical? Well, come as close as you can.Speaking of really valuable books, archival boxes, which may be custom made or bought from any of a number of suppliers, are almost a necessity. They guard against dust, sunlight, and accidental damage. And the much-mocked white gloves are not a bad idea either. If you don’t have time for those, do make sure your hands are clean.A number of websites offer advice on the care of books:The Library of Congress site is good, but brief. It’s at http://www.loc.gov/preserv/care/books.ht…More complete is the AIC site at http://aic.stanford.edu/ (which includes a brief bibliography)And more fun is the Tappin Book Mine site at http://www.tappinbookmine.com/bookcar2.h…It’s worth checking sites like these every so often. Advice on the best ways of caring for books changes as more is known so expert recommendations are worth keeping track of.Oh, and enjoy your books. Love them. Talk with them occasionally. I’m not sure why it helps, but I know they hate being neglected.
What’s the best way to store paperback books in the basement long term.
I need to store a couple hundred paperbacks for 5-10 years and would like to protect them from issues like mildew. We’ve only lived in our home a few months so we don’t know how damp our basement might be.
Either of the first two suggestions will work (actually, both – vacuum seal them and place them into a plastic container).The thing you want to avoid is putting them in a wood or especially cardboard container. Bugs like silverfish or cockroaches eat both cellulose and starch (what a carboard box is made of, as well as the books). By putting them in an airtight container, you eliminate the threat of invasive bugs eating the books. I wouldn’t use a wooden box or anything like that by itself. There is no moisture barrier and bugs can infest the wood.
book experts help…
My book got wet an moldy somehow, is there a way to save it or is it trash now??? **sob**
SOME ADVICE ON HOW TO CARE FOR YOUR BOOKSAcidic materials used in modern book production mean signs of decay such as yellowing paper are inevitable. However do not despair, there is plenty you can do to help slow such processes down and avoid other forms of damage. The advice below should help you keep your books in the best possible condition for you and future generations to enjoy.Light – All light contributes to paper decay and faded, rotting spines, but daylight is the worst offender. Protect your books by never storing them in direct sunlight and pull blinds when you are not in the room.Temperature – Heat increases the rate at which chemical reactions occur but too little heat can cause damp and mould. Try and store your books at a temperature between 60-70’F.Humidity – If your home is well sealed from draughts and centrally heated you will need to ensure that the atmosphere does not get too dry – try putting saucers of water above radiators and see how fast it evaporates. If the atmosphere is too dry, covers, especially of leather, will crack and paper becomes brittle. Conversely if it is too damp you may well get mould and pest infestations so avoid both these conditions – they are not good for you either!Pests – Bookworms are the larvae of various beetles and they, like silverfish and cockroaches, love the starches, glues and gelatine found in the spines of books. Look out for signs such as little piles of brown dust (bookworm excreta) when cleaning and consult an expert immediately if you find anything. Silverfish and book lice only thrive in damp conditions. Mice and rats enjoy eating books so keep them away. The same goes for young children and puppies!Storage – Do not keep books in attics (too hot and dry), cellars (too damp), and outhouses (possibly damp and open house for pests).Shelving – Should be strong enough not to sag (if a shelf does sag, prop it up in the middle with a block of wood). Avoid placing shelves against an outside wall as this is more likely to be damp (or leave a good 1″ gap between them and the wall) and do keep them away from radiators. There should be plenty of ventilation around books (stagnant air encourages mould) so it is best to position shelves just short of the back wall of the bookcase so air can circulate from top to bottom behind as well as in front. Do not push books right to the back of the shelf for the same reason. Keep surfaces smooth and do not use bookends with metal inserts to go under books as this will abrade the bindings. Adjustable shelves are most convenient as you should store your books upright and keep them close to each other in size (a very large book stored next to small ones will suffer strain as only a small part of it is supported). Use solid bookends to keep books upright and closely packed but not so tight that they are under pressure and difficult to remove. Store very large books flat but do not place others on top as you could damage the spines.Handling books – When removing from the shelf do not take hold of the books by the top of the spine or pinch the sides with your fingers as either could damage the binding. Instead push the books beside the one you want back so that you can take hold of the sides properly, or if you can reach to the back push the book out from there. Always support large books with both hands as you remove them and keep them supported when in use. Do not mark places in books as follows; by using a pair of glasses, for example, as this can strain the spine and leave dents in the pages; by turning down page corners as you allow dust to creep in easily and damage the paper fibres on the fold; by leaving the book face down or up as this strains the spine and could crack it. Do not use rubber bands to hold a book together as the rubber will in time deteriorate and stick to the book. Instead tie a wide strip of cotton cloth around the book. If you have a very damaged book, put it in a box for safekeeping until you decide what you want to do with it. Long term storage should be in acid free boxes or folders. Do not use paperclips, staples and pins as these often rust and leave indelible stains. Do not press flowers in books as this stains the paper. Do not store cuttings etc in books as this puts strain on the spine and splits it. Newspaper is especially acidic and will cause damage to adjacent pages. Never use sellotape or any kind of pressure sensitive tape as it is almost impossible to remove and stains the paper badly. Post-it notes leave a residue which attracts dust and the acid content in them could migrate into the book pages.Cleaning – Gives you the opportunity to inspect your books for any signs of pests or atmospheric damage. Dust top edges by brushing from spine outwards using a soft brush and holding book firmly so that dust does not simply fall into the book. You can use a mini hoover with brush attachment for this but it is best to line the nozzle behind the brush with muslin so that if bits of book did get sucked up you can easily retrieve them.If in doubt or requiring further information regarding for example leather dressing, always consult an expert. Either your binder or the conservation studio of the local public records office will be able to help with minor queries or with major infestations and disasters such as floods.
What is the best way to preserve OLD photographs and scrapbooks from before WWII… and postacards from 1910.
I have a bunch of stuff recently acquired from my family that I want to preserve in the best possible fashion what should I do…The scrapbook I do not want to take apart since it was put together my my great-grandmother in the 1930’s
I have a small collection of old postcards and paper money, and let me share with you what I have been using to protect them. For the paper money and old postcards, and I guess the same applies to old photos, I would normally insert them into thick OPP plastic sheets of the exact size, then place each of the OPP-protected items onto Prinz stock cards. Like this one here: http://www.michaelkay.co.uk/stamp/sts/prinzsystem.htmI would then insert these Prinz stock cards into folders.As for the scrapbook, I have no experience on how to protect it, but using the same method of protecting books, you could place mothballs near your book to protect it from silverfishes.
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